Pleasure and purpose: It's time to demand flavour in our food to feed our well-being

By Stefania Palmeri, Registered Dietitian, edited by Tania Haas

As much as we know certain foods are better than others, we gravitate to food that tastes good. Flavour is a huge driver behind our choices. Before the evolution of processed food and other modern agricultural practices, food that tasted good was also good for us nutritionally. But in the past 80 years, real food has lost flavour and synthetic additives have hijacked our brain and taste buds.

I became more aware of this issue when I attended a University of Toronto seminar on nutritional science. Mark Schatzker, the award-winning journalist of The Dorito Effect, provided an eye-opening exposé on why we crave what we do.  His arguments were so compelling that it went on to spur a dietitian-wide book club at Medcan.

Schatzker says that flavour is nature’s way of telling us what is nutritionally valuable – he calls this concept nutritional wisdom.  Flavour molecules are associated with certain nutrients, which our body uses as a map to guide us back to what we need.  But with the growth of ultra-processed foods, our bodies have lost this wisdom. We now crave flavours that are linked to foods of no value. Grapes, for example are nutritious, but grape soda is not.  As a species, we are lost and confused.

Pledge to eat more flavourful food

While we may feel the odds are stacked against us, there are ways we can reclaim flavour – and the nutrition we need for our well being:

Detox slowly from the junk and read labels

Many unhelpful food cravings are acquired and you can like healthier options in time.  If salt and sugar are an issue for you, reduce their intake gradually. The less you have, the less you crave.  Read labels to avoid artificial sweeteners and flavours.  It’s unfair competition to pit fruit against an artificial sweetener, which can be up to 600 times chemically sweeter than sugar.

Purchase heirloom fruits and vegetables

Heirloom fruits and vegetables have been farmed using open-pollination instead of intentional hybrid/cross-breeding techniques.  Through natural selection, the strongest genes are carried forward, resulting in a variety of flavours and colours.  Try heirloom tomatoes or heirloom purple carrots for a different spin on a salad – see if you can taste the difference.

Spice things up

Herbs and spices contain secondary plant compounds, which are chemicals that protect plants from parasites, insects, and animals. These chemicals, although toxic to some organisms, are advantageous to us and help ward off damage to our cells.  Oregano has strong antibiotic and antifungal properties; rosemary and thyme marinades can reduce cancer-causing compounds, such as HCAs and PHAs found in charred and grilled meats.  As Hippocrates is quoted as saying, let food be thy medicine.

Each March, the Dietitians of Canada celebrate nutrition month.  This year’s theme is to take the 100-meal journey, transforming small, sustainable changes into life-long, healthy behaviours.

Stefania Palmeri, registered dietitian at Medcan, has a soft spot for homegrown tomatoes and homemade tomato sauce.