Because 90% of visible aging is sun damage, sunscreen is your best defense.
by Dr. Julia Carroll, Dermatologist
As told to Tania Haas
Photo by Autumn Goodman on Unsplash
Just as fashion and habits change as we age, so should our skin care regimen. Age-specific treatments and routines can airbrush evidence of poor practices, smooth your skin’s texture and reveal a reflection that’s the best and most refreshed version of you.
At any age
Because 90% of visible aging is sun damage, sunscreen is your best defense. As a bonus, it also helps prevent skin cancers. After sunscreen, I recommend adequate sleep and avoiding cigarettes. It’s amazing how eight hours of beauty rest and healthy living can give you a natural radiance.
Recommendations: My favourite sunscreens for the face are those created by the companies Elta MD, Skinceuticals and LaRoche Posay Anthelios. These are all high-quality products because they contain specific UV filters that give excellent protection from harmful rays.
In your 30s
This is your skin’s sweet spot. Everything is in balance. However, you may start to notice you can’t get away with late nights and poor eating habits as much as you did in your twenties. The skin can start to thin and lose collagen in this decade.
Recommendations: In terms of topical treatments, I recommend retinol, a chemical compound that’s produced naturally in the body, a form of vitamin A. Using it on your face boosts the health of the epidermal layer by increasing the levels of collagen and increasing cell turnover. This leaves your skin smoother, with less visible wrinkling and decreased pigmentation.
In-clinic treatments include options like salicylic acid peels, ideal for women who are suffering from acne but are starting to see the subtle signs of aging. Peels in general work by removing surface layers of the skin, encouraging more skin turnover and revealing more even-toned skin.
In your 40s
You might start to see fine lines become more entrenched and sun damage appear more obvious. There could also be hint of volume loss, which can make the mouth area appear sad. In some women, rosacea also may develop or become noticeable at this time.
To decrease the inflammation and breakouts associated with rosacea, consider topical treatment gels like brimonidine and metrogel, as well as the newest topical medication Ivermectin. You can also choose a once-a-month laser option (we call it the anti-rosacea boot camp at Medcan) to reduce redness.
Recommendations: Antioxidants work together with your sunscreen to reverse sun damage and help with collagen production. The most important antioxidant is topical vitamin C (or L-ascorbic acid). Your topical vitamin C product should ideally be pharmaceutical-grade (purchased through a dermatologist or a plastic surgeon) and should be in serum format.
In your 50s and beyond
The fifties and sixties can be challenging, especially for women going through menopause. Varying hormonal levels can have an impact on our skin including loss of elasticity, adult acne and dryness. The face and its underlying structures can lose volume; you start to get thinner in the middle of your face and wider along your jaw line.
Recommendations: Moisturization is key for keeping skin looking its best. Dry skin can accentuate fine lines. Try adding an oil or serum to your routine. One of my go-to’s is Skinceuticals B5 Hydrating gel. I use it before my daily moisturizer and never fly without it.
When in doubt, check it out
Beyond the cosmetic aspects of skin care, abnormal dark spots could indicate a health concern. If any spots appear suddenly, grow quickly, are asymmetrical or have different colours, book an appointment with a physician right away.
Dr. Julia Carroll a lecturer at the University of Toronto and the consulting dermatologist for L’Oreal Paris Canada.